Junichi Abe despatched his vibrant fall assortment down a runway within the Happo-en backyard of Tokyo, and livestreamed the present. Evening had fallen and the fashions could possibly be seen working their method by a winding, tree-lined pathway, dimly lit in blue. After they stepped onto the well-lit runway, the colours out of the blue sprang to life.
General, it was truly a extra muted palette than regular, however that made the brightly-hued accents stand out even stronger — the crimson stripes lining a wealthy suede bomber, say, or a patch of turquoise mesh affixed to the breast of a go well with coat. This season was an train of minimalism for Abe, and basic types dominated: lengthy trench coats, conventional wool blazers, cardigans and ample, pleated trousers in pale beige and olive tones, varied shades of grey and deep browns.
That was the bottom to which he utilized his magic, splicing and dicing bits of technical sportswear, knit sweaters, the panel of a go well with jacket, the collar of a uniform shirt, a shrunk-down vest — you identify it. He continued his latest experiment in shrinkage and layering, tossing a vibrant inexperienced kid-sized puffer jacket with adult-lengthed arms over a houndstooth coat and a sporty pullover.
A lot of this experimentation felt like embellishment — a jumble of lace, ribbons and polka dots highlighting a shoulder, or an additional collar framing the face — which was an fascinating improvement at a time when his longtime pursuit of patching collectively disparate items feels so related, with the upcycling motion giving rise to extra eclectic types.
Footwear, one other Abe specialty, was extra-appealing: these colorfully-layered sneakers, the white ones, too, and studded loafers. Eye-catching, all of it, even by the display.