Just like the soul-searching Peer Gynt, Sarah-Linh Tran and Christophe Lemaire in contrast their fall assortment, with its wintry shade palette and tone-on-tone layers, to an onion. It could be a humble vegetable, however additionally it is eminently versatile and filled with taste, so proved an apt metaphor.
Aspiring to cater to the present want for defense and luxury, they layered their attribute relaxed tailoring with wafer-thin, second-skin jersey items and dry silk pajama-like designs. There have been additionally tunics of various lengths for each women and men, padded coats and attire produced from silk and cotton, and touches of Mongolian lambskin and shearling. Mottled prints featured marbled results, resembled swirls of ink or fashioned refined feather motifs, whereas a pair of seems to be in vivid crimson offered a contact of drama.
With males’s and girls’s collections proven collectively for the second time — the design duo determined to change their calendar and current solely twice a 12 months after COVID-19 struck — the designs echoed one another on a various forged of characters. They mingled, showing to watch one another warily, in a fastidiously lit black house that highlighted the all-important cuts, textures and refined performs on shade effectively.
Nodding to altering life and the practicalities of city life on foot or using a bicycle by way of the town, Tran and Lemaire styled their girls’s seems to be with low heels or boots gathered on the ankle to tuck within the pants — so not often an train in type, however right here it made excellent sense. Hooded silhouettes like an ivory silk gown additionally added a sporty inflection to the minimalistic lineup.
A plethora of pockets accentuated the motion of the materials and offered construction, on reporter jackets as an illustration, whereas cross-body baggage in mushy leather-based had been designed to be worn in pairs, wanting like protecting mittens — or boxing gloves, relying on interpretation — by which to shelter the fingers.