When the pandemic hit, Dilan Lurr discovered himself questioning about his place on the earth. A civil engineer by coaching, he’d all the time had niggling doubts about his vogue path. “However I’ve lastly accepted that I’m a designer,” he mentioned throughout a showroom preview.
With that got here a need to acknowledge Antwerp and the Belgian inventive neighborhood which have deeply influenced -and embraced – his model’s identification: Lurr was named rising expertise of 2019 by the nation’s vogue our bodies. “With the digital method of doing issues, we’re nearly shedding monitor of the aesthetic currents of the totally different cities,” he mentioned.
So in line with the intense and cerebral undertones of the Belgian colleges, Lurr peppered his fall assortment with creative references as various as Hieronimus Bosch’s “Backyard of Earthly Delights,” embodied in a puffy pink velvet cape or in a furry jacket; New York’s legendary nightclub CBGB, within the laddered knitwear and slinky slip attire; or an airplane print noticed on shirts and tops, lifted from an anti-war images e book by German lawyer and writer Klaus Staerk.
Filmed in opposition to the uncooked industrial partitions of well-known Antwerp membership Grand Capital Café, a clubbing landmark that had solely simply reopened after a decade-long absence when lockdown occurred, the lineup had the weirdness of a Rainer Fassbinder movie – one other affect this season – and far of its memorable grit, too.