That is no time to point out off, or for excessive exuberance. It’s extra time for intimacy, based on Prada co-creative administrators Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. With this in thoughts, they selected lengthy johns because the defining garment of their charming, intriguing fall lineup. It was completely sudden, and isn’t designer trend right here to shock us?
As Prada defined throughout a press convention following the digital present, lengthy johns have totally different connotations. “It might look romantic, attractive, playful or child-like,” mentioned the designer. Prada and Simons put these warming undergarments underneath each outfit within the assortment, together with pinstriped blazers worn with the sleeves shoved up over the elbow. The duo additionally interpreted the underwear to create a variety of different designs, from jumpsuits to turtlenecks and polo shirts. All knitted, they got here in numerous textures and quite a lot of jacquard motifs, which felt completely Prada, however that Simons beforehand employed in his signature males’s collections. The body-hugging knits appeared sharp and distinctive amid the glut of thick materials and ample shapes this Milan season.
Tactility and colour had been two of the primary parts within the lineup, additional enhanced by Rem Koolhaas and AMO’s impactful set of interconnected rooms, every wallpapered with totally different supplies, from fluffy eco-fur to slick marble, and in placing colour combos, together with purple and jade inexperienced, in addition to pink and black. “We labored with colour juxtapositions to specific heat and sensitivity, even with daring tones,” mentioned Simons.
Whereas the knitted jacquard kinds are related to a extra home, cozy dimension, the number of outerwear designs, starting from re-nylon bombers and trenches to very graphic peacoat and coats, supplied safety from the outside parts. The volumes had been cocooning and sculptural, the fashions’s skinny legs bringing to thoughts clappers beneath large bell shapes. “We felt like decreasing, minimizing,” Simons defined.
For this second co-created assortment, Prada and Simons continued to leverage the ability of the model’s triangle brand, which popped up not solely on the buttons of coats, but in addition knowledgeable the form of zippered pouches adorning garments and equipment, together with gloves.
What felt fairly totally different from the ladies’s assortment offered in September was how seamlessly Prada and Simons’ particular person aesthetics melded. Right here was a compelling blast of forward-thinking trend.