In his “Moral Dada” assortment, Ronald van der Kemp questioned a world he considers gone mad, making a forged of Surrealistic characters and dressing them together with his upcycled waste creations in what he described as “apocalyptic couture.”
He took his eco-stance even additional this season, working with leftover materials from earlier collections, already sourced from deadstock, and making a kind of collage, portray over prints and stitching appliqués on high, ensuring appears to be like vaguely acquainted but not. “I haven’t purchased something for greater than a 12 months,” the designer stated in a Zoom preview from his studio.
One robe evoked a break up character, wanting like three completely different items relying on the angle; others channeled an underground social gathering vibe — topical when clandestine fêtes are a factor and there are anti-curfew protesters on the streets of Amsterdam. To wit, one such social gathering was the setting for his “Behind Closed Doorways” video, set in an empty resort.
As such, there was a glam punk really feel to a lot of the gathering, with exaggerated shoulders, accentuated bodices, lengthy gloves, high-shine materials and chain particulars. His reinterpretation of the tuxedo go well with got here by means of a bib-fronted high that was open on the perimeters and again and paired with black pants.
His bride was historically clad in white organza, though her robe was solid from broken material that was layered, formed and adorned with lace and appliqué flowers, disguising its flaws.
For the second time, the designer partnered with Carpet for Life, a corporation working with girls in Morocco, to create a leopard print hooded cape costume and a jacket — van der Kemp’s model of a fur coat.
When it got here to newness, there was one exception to the rule — he labored with Dutch agency I-did, which recycles outdated uniforms from the likes of KLM and turns them into felt, utilizing their material to create a seamless corset that was adorned with steel chains.
Within the present context, van der Kemp is questioning greater than ever the necessity to create extra stuff, significantly garments. There was no scrimping when it got here to method, nonetheless, with handiwork galore starting from skillful draping to the floral embroideries on barely there tulle and the hand-painted motifs of a number of designs. His underworld aesthetics, in the meantime, had been coherent with the theme, offering a contact of escapism whereas reminding us of the tough realities of over-consumption.