Stepping again a full century – maybe within the hope that the 2020s may also roar – Russian couturier Ulyana Sergeenko sought escape in interval glamor.
Along with her tenth anniversary assortment, she took inspiration from Russian silent-movie star Vera Kholodnaya to supply a lineup chock filled with Artwork Deco references, from artist Erté and the Empire State Constructing to Moscow’s Aeroport metro station.
Diamond and elongated hexagon shapes had been the gathering’s predominant motifs. Some had been embroidered, others shaped inset panels in lace, crystal or enamel, all made by historic suppliers utilizing the ancestral craft strategies of her homeland, a leitmotif that continues to type the baseline for her opulent collections.
For day, there have been sharp-shouldered crêpe jackets and pencil skirts, floaty chiffon attire and bejeweled cardigans. Sweetheart and deep-V necklines and lace bodices with a boudoir really feel punctuated the silhouettes, carrying over into the eveningwear items. These had been labored in jewel or dusty shades, or in black or white, with billowing skirts or A-line shapes, in silk, velvet or all-over embroideries. A beaded mesh scarf and a feather coat ramped up the sense of interval drama, whereas stylized rose motifs featured as embroideries or within the carved wood clutches that accessorized the gathering.