You’d assume that taking up an additional gig as creative director of Diesel would pile on the stress for Glenn Martens, however in response to him, designing his Y/Undertaking assortment this season was a cinch.
It’s the primary time the Paris-based model has merged males’s put on and ladies’s put on into a single unified collection, and Martens had all of it sketched out earlier than the summer time holidays. “We’ve by no means had much less drama than this season, despite the fact that the gathering is twice as massive as we usually do,” he reported.
That confidence was mirrored in his lineup, which supplied a extra polished tackle the label’s signature twisted shapes. Alongside its core denim items, together with denims with chaps and acid-washed jackets, there have been tailor-made coats, costume shirts, quilted using jackets and chain-print scarves. “We’re rising up,” Martens mentioned with amusing.
Whorled constructions have been created with the assistance of a metallic wire immediately built-in into the fabric, permitting the wearer to sculpt the garment. Swirls of material framed the neckline of a costume in a checked tailoring material, whereas a trench coat appeared caught within the motion of a very mischievous gust of wind.
“We wish to create stunning garments, which nearly generally are objects or artwork items,” Martens mentioned. “Generally it’s such a assume tank of inventive concepts that folks simply see the assume tank, however a few of these ideas can really be wearable.”
A working example: His ongoing collaboration with Canada Goose on a rainwear capsule, together with a protracted black rain cape that was as stylish as an opera coat. Y/Project additionally connected with eco-friendly Brazilian model Melissa on a line of sneakers impressed by Victorian vases, together with a trompe-l’oeil rubber model of a glass slipper.
Martens mentioned the upheaval triggered by the coronavirus pandemic had given him the boldness to change from 4 collections a 12 months to 2. “We are able to discover extra, we are able to develop extra, push items extra, with out being at all times so rushed to ship that child,” he mentioned. “Someplace, we’re very fortunate, as a result of we’re simply residing in our little bubble.”